PARIS:

The global shadow of war has failed to halt the rhythm of fashion in the French capital, where Paris Fashion Week continued with high-profile shows from leading luxury houses despite mounting geopolitical uncertainty surrounding the Middle East conflict.

Organisers of the event, operated under the umbrella of FHCM, said there would be “no cancellations and no modifications” to the programme. Executive president Pascal Morand said the federation was closely monitoring global security developments while staying in contact with local authorities, maintaining the traditional continuity of one of the world’s most influential fashion gatherings.

The spotlight fell on collections from Christian Dior SE and Yves Saint Laurent, which dominated the opening major day of autumn and winter displays. The Dior show, staged in the Tuileries gardens, drew celebrities including Pharrell Williams, Isabelle Adjani and Spanish filmmaker Pedro Almodovar.

Designer Jonathan Anderson presented his second collection for Dior since joining the house last year. The show was inspired by Claude Monet’s Water Lilies series, with garments and staging reflecting natural fluidity. A glass-covered catwalk was built across a pond in the Paris park, symbolising the blending of art, fashion and landscape.

Fashion editor Jeanne Le Bault described the Dior collection as one that “celebrates the Dior heritage while making it fresher, more fluid and inspired by nature”. The presentation aimed to balance historical luxury craftsmanship with modern minimalist aesthetics.

At Saint Laurent, creative director Anthony Vaccarello marked his tenth year with the brand by presenting sharply tailored black tuxedo-style suits for women, alongside lace dresses in earthy red, orange and brown tones. Models including Bella Hadid walked the runway.

The Saint Laurent show emphasised empowerment through design, with tuxedo jackets intended to convey “a liberating feeling of ease and freedom”. Guest appearances included Charlotte Gainsbourg and K-pop star Rose (singer).

However, the luxury fashion sector continues to face commercial pressure. Parent company Kering has reported three consecutive years of revenue decline at Saint Laurent following a post-pandemic slowdown in premium handbag and apparel demand.

Paris Fashion Week will continue with shows by Courrèges, Balmain, Dries van Noten, Stella McCartney and Tom Ford, reaffirming the city’s position as the global centre of high fashion even as international crises reshape the cultural and economic backdrop of major events.