It is cold enough for the waitress serving in the lane outside to be clad in a puffer jacket. Yet the diners, tourists hardened by northern winters, seem untroubled as they savour their meals. An unexceptional scene. Except that it is past 10pm and the restaurant is in the Quartieri Spagnoli, a gridiron of alleyways in the heart of Naples that, until recently, outsiders entered at their peril. Pickpocketing, mugging and bag-snatching were all common—licensed and exploited by a clan of the Camorra, the Neapolitan mafia.